Hidden Greece: where to stay and what to do away from the beaten track | Greece holidays

Gorgeous Greece has always been a classic, go-to summer holiday destination, and the pandemic served as a stark reminder that tourism is the main motor driving the economy. As a result, many new initiatives were rushed through: from improving infrastructure and promoting sustainability to developing lesser-known destinations.

Early projections suggest that these measures have succeeded and, if all goes well, 2022 could be a bumper season, with tourism reaching 80-90% of pre-Covid levels. So maybe this is the year to discover an out-of-the-way beach or an underrated resort, to recharge those sun-depleted batteries far from the madding holiday-deprived crowds, or to embark on a scenic mountain trek.

For trips to the islands, ferry timetables change from week to week, so it’s best to book tickets one to two days in advance using an agent such as First Choice Travel, which has the latest dates and times.

Alonissos, northern Sporades islands

The pine-clad island of Alonissos in the north Aegean – overshadowed by its better-known neighbours Skopelos and Skiathos – was catapulted into international consciousness in 1992 through the establishment of the Alonissos national marine park, the first in Greece and still the largest protected marine area in Europe. Its waters shelter the critically endangered Mediterranean monk seal, plus dolphins, whales and rare seabirds. There are daily boat trips to the park’s 28 islands and outcrops, during which passengers can swim from the beach of Kyra Panagia island, which, intriguingly, belongs to Mount Athos. Its monastery of the Virgin Mary is open to the public and inhabited by two monks, one of whom, Father Chariton, was previously a chef in Camden Town, London.

The latest novelty is the first-ever Greek underwater museum, a perfectly preserved shipwreck dating from 425BC, which lies on the seabed beside the island of Peristera. The ship carried 4,000 amphorae, or wine urns, that can still be seen by recreational scuba divers who come with a guide – unusually, as other similar wrecks in Greece are off-limits for fear of theft. Non-divers can explore the shipwreck virtually via the museum website.

Eye-catching marine parks and shipwrecks aside, Alonissos is really about forested treks, relaxing swims and dozy unfussiness. There are only two settlements: the tranquil capital, Chora, and the small, busy port…