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Tofu: How an ancient Chinese elixir became today’s ‘it’ food

Two-Michelin-starred chef Vicky Lau's new venture is a soy-themed restaurant.

(CNN) — There’s a curious scene taking place inside what appears to be a run-of-the-mill Hong Kong industrial building.
Vicky Lau, chef and owner of the two-Michelin-starred Tate Dining Room, and Romain Herbreteau, former operations director of French fine-dining group Dominique Bouchet, are darting around a gigantic soy milk machine the two of them put together by themselves some weeks earlier.

“We ordered this machine from Taiwan but they weren’t able to come and set it up due to Covid-19. So it was just me and Romain when we first unboxed and set it up. We didn’t know if things would explode or what would happen,” Lau tells CNN Travel.

The two-meter-tall contraption is the key to Lau and Herbreteau’s latest venture: Mora, a modern French-Chinese restaurant that celebrates one of the world’s most misunderstood ingredients — soy.

Two-Michelin-starred chef Vicky Lau’s new venture is a soy-themed restaurant.

Courtesy of Mora

Opening in 2022, it has already made it to Michelin’s online guide and there’s a two-month waitlist to get a table.

Lau says she came up with the concept for Mora while researching recipes for a tasting menu — “Ode to Tofu” — for Tate in 2020.

She fell in love.

“The thing that really stood out about tofu is the texture. I can’t think of another ingredient that has such a wide range of textures, from super-soft silken tofu to super-firm mock meat,” says Lau.

To make the best tofu in town, one has to first produce the best soy milk. That’s where the machine comes in.

Herbreteau, who has become quite the expert on soy milk production, puts the beans — which have been soaked for around 10 hours — into the machine. These will then be ground at a speed of 60 seconds/kilogram and cooked for five to 10 minutes after reaching a temperature of 98 C (208.4 F).

Modern tofu-making: A reflector is used to check the thickness of the soy milk.

Modern tofu-making: A reflector is used to check the thickness of the soy milk.

Maggie Hiufu Wong/CNN

Over a period of nine minutes, Herbreteau closely observes the flowmeter — a device that measures the speed of the water that passes through. Moments later, the soy milk is extracted and the room fills with the aroma of Japanese-style tonyu — known for having a thicker consistency and a lower water-to-soybean ratio.

“We could immediately feel the difference in the first batch. It’s very creamy and you can really get the bean taste,” says Lau.

Covid-19 fuels rise in popularity of tofu

Lau is not alone in her fascination with soy and tofu.

A food staple in east Asia since its discovery some…

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