Croatia’s third largest city after the capital Zagreb and coastal favourite Split, underrated Rijeka is generally overlooked by tourists, who tend to pass through en route to the islands. But among Croatians, this historic spot is well known and loved as the cultural capital of the country.
A phoenix from the ashes, the city’s Hapsburg grandeur and industrial prominence had long since faded by the 1970s and 80s, when punk and new wave musicians began using its abandoned warehouses for gigs and club nights. Money then poured in as it celebrated becoming Croatia’s first European Capital of Culture for 2020 ‒ alas, the same year that few tourists would benefit from the polish-up. But since then, with much of its elaborate Baroque architecture restored and standing pride of place, Rijeka is thriving, its music scene still pumping, maintained by its student and graduate population who call the city home.
What to do
Climb to the castle
Take the staircase that ascends from sea level all the way up to Trsat Castle, a medieval fortress built by Frankopan kings. The brave will be rewarded with showstopping views over the city and Kvarner Bay beyond. When you reach the area at the top you’ll be overjoyed to find out that within the castle there’s a great bar, Vintage Caffe. Time your visit for around 6pm so you can mooch around the walls and turrets of the carefully restored look out, before enjoying a sunset drink at Vintage accompaniede by the best views in the city.
(Vintage Bar)
Hit the beach
There are a handful of pretty beaches just a short bike ride away from the city centre. To the west, Plaža Kantrida is the busiest; a long stretch of small grey pebbles, it is family and dog friendly. To the east and within walking distance of the centre is Plaža Sablićevo, a small cove that gets very busy by lunchtime (no matter how early or late in the season), so get up with the birds to wade into the life-affirming waters of the Adriatic before everyone else shows up.
Plaža Glavanovo just next door is a similar affair: you need to ascend a hundred or so steps to get down to the crystal waters. It’s locals favourite Plaža Kostrena that takes the cake here, though, the cleanest water and most beautiful setting with far fewer people. It’s a 15-minute drive east of the city centre, but very much worth it.
Check out Croatian music
Rijeka has been the heart of Croatia’s local music scene since the 1970s, when its atmospheric disused factories and warehouses…
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