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Ami-dong: Busan’s ‘tombstone village’ built by Korean refugees on a Japanese cemetery

A tombstone displayed outside a house in Ami-dong, Busan, South Korea, on August 20.

Editor’s Note — Monthly Ticket is a CNN Travel series that spotlights some of the most fascinating topics in the travel world. In October, we shift our focus to the offbeat, highlighting everything from (allegedly) haunted spaces to abandoned places.

Busan, South Korea (CNN) — At first glance, Ami-dong seems like an ordinary village within the South Korean city of Busan, with colorful houses and narrow alleys set against looming mountains.

But on closer inspection, visitors might spot an unusual building material embedded in house foundations, walls and steep staircases: tombstones inscribed with Japanese characters.

Ami-dong, also called the Tombstone Cultural Village, was built during the depths of the Korean War, which broke out in 1950 after North Korea invaded the South.

The conflict displaced massive numbers of people across the Korean Peninsula — including more than 640,000 North Koreans crossing the 38th parallel dividing the two countries, according to some estimates.

Within South Korea, many citizens also fled to the country’s south, away from Seoul and the front lines.

A tombstone displayed outside a house in Ami-dong, Busan, South Korea, on August 20.

Jessie Yeung/CNN

Many of these refugees headed for Busan, on South Korea’s southeast coast — one of the only two cities never captured by North Korea during the war, the other being Daegu located 88 kilometers (55 miles) away.

Busan became a temporary wartime capital, with UN forces building a perimeter around the city. Its relative security — and its reputation as a rare holdout against the North’s army — made Busan an “enormous city of refugees and the last bastion of national power,” according to the city’s official website.

But new arrivals found themselves with a problem: finding somewhere to live. Space and resources were scarce with Busan stretched to its limits to accommodate the influx.

Some found their answer in Ami-dong, a crematorium and cemetery that lay at the foot of Busan’s rolling mountains, built during Japan’s occupation of Korea from 1910 to 1945. That period of colonial rule — and Japan’s use of sex slaves in wartime brothels — is one of the main historical factors behind the two countries’ bitter relationship to this day.
During that colonial period, Busan’s livable flatland and downtown areas by the sea ports were developed as Japanese territory, according to an article on the city government’s official visitor’s guide. Meanwhile, poorer laborers settled further inland,…

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