Days are planned according to the the comings and goings of boats, and rhythms and whims of the infamous tide, which will wash over or reveal the little beaches and a cornucopia of marine fauna on a muddy shore.
Though geographically close to the mainland, it feels a world away.
In French, the word for those who live on an island is ‘insulaire’, and it doesn’t take a linguistic genius to connect the etymological dots from there to the English ‘insular’; to be cut off, isolated, withdrawn. Such words are tinged with negativity, but perhaps there’s more virtue to be found in them as, after all, that’s what you come to a place like this in search of.
Arz however seems to straddle the best of both worlds: there is a solitary supermarket, a single school, and one small bus, but it’s just a 30-minute ferry ride from the wealthy, pretty market town of Vannes.
In this guide to Île-d’Arz, we’ve shared everything you need to plan a day trip or stay on the island , including tips on bicycle routes and coastal walking trails, advice on the ferry, and essential travel tips the island which is so near, but so far from the mainland.
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