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Basel city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Switzerland’s underrated capital

Basel city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Switzerland’s underrated capital


Facing the borders of France and Germany, Basel is a Swiss city that refuses to be put in a box. Sure, the pretty, pastel-coloured townhouses lining the banks of the Rhine and fairytale lights of the Christmas market speak of tradition, but the vibe here is altogether more left-field when you scratch beneath the surface.

Case in point, swimming in the city’s many water fountains is not only permitted, it’s actively encouraged. And its most celebrated artist creates noisy sculptures using scrap metal. Throw in a bevy of interesting architecture and a burgeoning street food scene, and you have the makings of a great city break.

What to do

Check out the art

As the city where the annual Art Basel fair was founded – now a global phenomenon with events in Asia and North America – it’s unsurprising that you’ll find some pretty edgy artworks here. Museum Tinguely is the most interesting if you’re travelling with kids: it houses the single largest collection of works by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, whose noisy kinetic sculptures made from scrap metal are chaotic and joyful all at once. The Kunstmuseum is best if your tastes are more traditional, and the building is an architectural marvel in itself.

The Kunstmuseum will delight fine art lovers

(Kunstmuseum Basel)

Get on a boat

The best way to see the city is from the water and the year-round brunch cruise is hugely popular with locals and tourists alike. For 59CHF (£52), you can hop on board from 10am and enjoy a leisurely sail between Dreiländereck (the tri-nation meeting point) and Museum Tinguely until 2pm, all the while eating breads, cheeses and charcuterie to your heart’s content. Or catch one of the four ferries – “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli” – for a mere 2.50CHF (£2); these are propelled between the two banks by the force of the river.

Delight your inner child

Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel is a treasure trove of toys, with four floors dedicated to everything from dolls’ houses to miniature figurines; a level focused solely on teddy bears features some terrifying-looking specimens.

Stroll down Imbergässlein and you’ll see Basel’s other museum of wonder, Hoosesagg (pants pocket). Set in the door of a 600-year-old house, this two foot by two foot display is the city’s smallest “museum”. What began as a way to stop…

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