Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.
Spooling out across northern Manhattan, Harlem has long been a creative hub and a cradle of Black culture. It’s most famous for the Harlem Renaissance: in the early 20th century, African Americans transformed this district into an artistic beacon, where rich jazz, literary and fashion scenes fizzed.
Harlem has just as much creative clout today and is currently having a second renaissance of sorts. New soul food spots are spearheading a culinary revival, while trendy boutiques and cocktail dens pop up along the main drags. Even the district’s most famous landmark – the long-standing Apollo Theater – is getting a facelift.
There’s also a lot that hasn’t changed. Veteran jazz clubs still pulse into the night; elegant 19th-century brownstones stand shoulder-to-shoulder; and the arts scene is as exciting as ever. Here’s how to get to grips with NYC’s most storied neighbourhood.
(Kate Glicksberg/NYC & Company)
Do
Bask in the jazz
Jazz lives in Harlem’s bones. Learn more at the National Jazz Museum, where exhibitions trace the musical genre, from its birthplace in New Orleans to its explosion here during the Harlem Renaissance. Jewels of the collection include a piano belonging to jazz legend Duke Ellington and a vintage Victrola record player.
But the best way to immerse yourself in the head-bobbing, soul-fuelling genre is at a traditional jazz club. You can’t beat down-to-earth Patrick’s Place, where live shows and jam sessions run from Thursday to Saturday – there’s even a Sunday brunch option. The music is served up alongside a menu of classic Jamaican dishes and Caribbean-inspired cocktails. Minton’s Playhouse and snug Bill’s Place are popular, too.
Catch a gig at the Apollo Theater
A glittering Who’s Who of the soul and jazz world – Billie Holiday, Aretha Franklin, Luther Vandross – have played the hallowed stage at Apollo Theater. It remains a beloved Harlem landmark, though it’s currently gearing up for a major expansion;…
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