How to climb Denali: all your questions answered

How high is Denali?

At 6,190m (20,310ft), Denali in Alaska, USA, is the highest peak in North America and the third highest mountain of the seven summits.

Since the 1950s, Denali was believed to be 6,194m (20,320ft) until 2013, when a report gave its elevation as 6,168m (20,237ft). However, in 2015, the United States Geological Survey measured Denali again and determined the mountain’s now widely accepted height of 6,190m (20,310ft).

Why did it used to be called Mount McKinley?

The name Denali comes from Koyukon, a traditional Native Alaskan language, and means ‘the tall one’. The name had been used for generations until 1896 when a gold prospector began referring to the mountain as Mt McKinley after William McKinley, a presidential candidate at the time. After McKinley became president and was later assassinated, Congress formally recognised the name in 1917 even though McKinley had never visited Alaska. After decades of petitioning by the Alaska Legislature, supported by many Alaskans, mountaineers and Alaska Natives, in 2015, President Obama officially changed the name back to Denali.

Did you climb Denali with a guide?

Yes, I joined the American Alpine Institute (AAI) on a guided climb via the West Buttress. As I am based in the UK, I booked via Jagged Globe who organised international flights and advised on gear and other logistics. However, in hindsight, I would recommend booking directly with AAI and cutting out the middleman.

Can you climb Denali unguided?

You can climb Denali without a guide, but most climbers do use guides. It significantly increases your chances of success. It is also much safer to climb Denali as part of a guided team. While we were on the mountain, there were several accidents, including two deaths – all of them unguided climbers.

If climbing in a team, you will always be roped up to at least two climbers including a guide who will have considerably more knowledge…