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This charming town on Lake Como is where Italians go to escape the summer crowds

Simon Calder’s Travel

Lake Como has long been a popular getaway for holidaymakers seeking an elegant lakeside retreat, with the towns of Bellagio and Como attracting tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of visitors a year.

Its appeal is by no means new. Lake Como was one of the major luxury European hotspots of the 1960s, providing a haven for Hollywood stars and wealthy families keen to escape the city. Winston Churchill came here to paint after the war and Verdi was inspired to write La Traviata on these very banks.

Today, signs of luxury abound – private boats dot a lake surrounded by waterfront mansions, and there’s a Ferrari around every corner. The rich and famous flock to the lake every summer, with the likes of George and Amal Clooney, Tom Cruise, Madonna, and Sylvester Stallone all enjoying the shores of Como. Lake Como has a rich reputation, and the crowds and often exorbitant prices reflect that.

However, Lake Como isn’t just made up of high-end tourist-filled hotspots. Along the 30-mile-long lake, you can find culturally historic towns such as Lecco, Sorico, Menaggio, and Domaso that provide a respite from the oppressive crowds. After all, part of the magic of escaping to a lakeside town or mountainous refuge is to get in touch with nature, not be jostled by the hordes trying to get the perfect lakefront photo.

Como winds for 30 miles through Lecco, Sorico and Menaggio
Como winds for 30 miles through Lecco, Sorico and Menaggio (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Just south of Varenna lies the town of Lecco, beloved by Italians looking for a Lake Como getaway. The town itself feels small and the centre is walkable – you can get from the train station to the ferry terminal in just 10 minutes on foot.

That’s not to say that there isn’t a wealth of shops, bakeries, and restaurants that you can dive into. You’ll find big name European stores like H&M, Calzedonia, and Carrefour supermarkets mixed in with local independent clothing and bookshops. The lack of touristy stands is apparent. Unlike Bellagio, you won’t find stalls selling fridge magnets and trinkets on every corner.

There are also the typical Italian piazzas, such as Piazza Garibaldi, where you can enjoy an espresso with a pastry while hearing a busker play. Afterwards, wander along the lakefront promenade with its well-maintained cycle lanes and rows of flowers with a generous scoop of gelato from Capo Horn Gelateria Artigianale. For the main…

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