No other food is as synonymous with Mexican cuisine as the humble taco. Consumed by all Mexicans regardless of social status, tacos can be found throughout the country and vary significantly by region. In the country’s capital, taco stands dominate the streetscape, with the smell of fried and roasted pork and grilled beef an integral element of daily life. Whether it’s eaten in a trio during a lunch break or washed down with an icy beer after a night out, a taco is always a good idea.
It’s important to understand that tortillas are to Mexicans what bread is to Europeans. Be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, most Mexican families have a hefty stack of tortillas on the table, kept warm in a tortillero – a tortilla holder – which is accessed regularly and enthusiastically to wrap stews or meat. Much like a sandwich, the fillings in a taco are endless. Even elaborate Mexican dishes like mole sauce – an earthy, richly-layered concoction made with chilli peppers, spices and often chocolate – and cochinita pibil – slow-roasted pork marinated in citrus juice and achiote (annatto seeds) – can be tucked inside a tortilla and considered a taco.
As a Mexico City native who often writes about food, I’d been eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Michelin Guide in Mexico. We’re a proud people and can’t stop talking about our cuisine and the restaurants that regularly appear on the World’s 50 Best list – mainly Pujol and Quintonil. Last May, the wait ended and the stars were unveiled. Much to everyone’s surprise, a tiny, relatively unknown taquería was awarded a star. Although this was the first time the Michelin Guide rated restaurants in Mexico, there are certain expectations associated with dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant, and local foodies weren’t expecting one to be awarded to a taco stand. Suddenly, the modest, unpretentious taco had become Michelin-worthy – and a Michelin-starred experience was accessible to everyone.
The taquería that made headlines after it was crowned with a Michelin star is El Califa de León, a 10-foot by 10-foot taco shop tucked behind a row of street stalls selling colourful clothing items in the working-class San Rafael neighbourhood. The…
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