A deluge of snow covered the Alpine huts and sparkling Christmas trees that adorned the Old Town Square. The Christmas markets were opening the next day, and the festooned courtyards, dimly lit alleys and hidden gardens that offshoot the square had all been bustling with people enjoying a stroll or an al fresco eggnog.
This was Prague at its most enticing. The city is unique, even among European capitals, for its fusion of architecture from between the 14th and 19th centuries, giving it a particularly elegant cityscape that is made all the more entrancing when a dusting of white covers the russet roofs, burgher houses and Gothic spires.
The wonder of this 1,100-year-old city was not lost on me, but having already visited the Czech capital twice, I had made up my mind that any further visits would need to include a trip somewhere else to see more of the country. This time, a stay in the capital would bookend a visit to a lesser-known spa town in western Bohemia.
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But first, Prague. An obvious base, especially during the Christmas markets. The city’s other main plaza, Wenceslas Square, is a focal point, both of the markets and the country’s move away from Soviet rule during the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Nowadays, the presence of a vast casino and a large, almost 24-hour McDonalds hints at Czech opinion on that period of their history.
I continued west to see a light mist dimming the gas lamps on the Charles Bridge, while Prague Castle, the largest ancient castle in the world, stood imposingly on the hill across the Vltava River. Between these landmarks, Prague has an impressive but manageable list of major tourist attractions.
Dotted in between there are art galleries and interesting museums – from the National Gallery (admission from £6) to the Museum of Communism (£13 for adult admission) – and a proliferation of affordable drinking holes, fantastic restaurants and other sights, such as Municipal House or the original city gate towers that serve as an entrance to the Old Town. Prague Boats’ lunch cruise and buffet package is a relaxing way to spend a couple of hours while enjoying great views and Czech food; for something a little different, visit Spa Beerland…
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