“You cannot come into the temple unless you are happy; you have to be smiling when you make an offering,” my guide Srix tells me, a beaming smile stretching across her own face.
I am standing outside the Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple near Ubud in the rural centre of Bali, while attempting to fix a sarong around my waist. The traditional garment with a golden selendang cloth tie is mandatory to enter the Hindu temple, where I am about to experience a purification ceremony.
Tourist visits to sacred sites on the Indonesian island have caused some controversy in recent years, with reports of backpackers in bikinis, naked influencers and disruption to dance performances.
According to Indonesia’s Central Statistics Agency, there were 7.75 million international arrivals in the first seven months of 2024 – a 20 per cent rise on numbers from the previous year. These figures – coupled with the reports of inappropriate behaviour – have raised concerns about overtourism. Yet, this is also a country that relies heavily on funds from visitors.
Read more: The best Bali holiday destinations and where to stay for a tropical getaway
Tour operator Intrepid claim the best way to strike a happy balance is by staying in locally-owned accommodation, visiting remote communities and following the guidance of local tour leaders – like Srix – who are sensitive to traditional cultures.
As we walk through the main entrance, she points out two statues with “scary faces” and tells me: “This is so when we enter the temple, we have to lose our negative thoughts, only the positive thing you can bring in.”
We enter the purification pools, where Srix shows me how to pray, sitting in a yoga pose, and invites me to make a wish before making an offering and stepping into the first pond.
Ducking my head under the fast-flowing fountain, at first I feel very British, uncomfortable in my sarong, but the refreshing water in the deep Balian humidity awakens my senses and is immediately relaxing.
Read more: Indonesia travel guide
Whatever negativity I managed to sneak past the scary…
Click Here to Read the Full Original Article at The Independent Travel…