My Machu Picchu Hike

When I finally decided to visit Peru, I knew one thing: I wanted to hike with the company that Mark Adams, my friend and fellow travel writer, used for his book Turn Right at Machu Picchu. The stories he shared about his treks and what he learned on them convinced me that those were the people I wanted to show me around the Sacred Valley, so I might have my own pretend Indiana Jones moment: me, the wilderness, and my local guide.

So I emailed Amazonas Explorer, which focuses on private tours as well as off-the beaten path hikes in the Sacred Valley, to see if it would be possible to book something. While a private tour was more expensive than a regular group trip, I liked the idea of going at my own pace and having my own guide. Plus, when the owner, Paul, said a few people from the Amazonas office would be joining, it made me feel like I would be hiking with locals rather than just on some tourist-focused group outing.

I wasn’t going to do the full Inca Trail, as I didn’t have enough time, didn’t feel fit enough, and absolutely hate camping. Instead, I opted for the famed KM104 hike, which starts at the marker by that name (104km from Cusco, an exit point on the train line from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu) and takes you through the Sacred Valley and a few Incan sites before linking up with the main Inca Trail that leads into Machu Picchu.*

“We’ll be there to pick you up at your hotel in Cusco at 4:30am, so we can catch the train,” wrote Paul over email.

A 4:30am pickup meant a 3:30am wake-up, and there was absolutely no way I wanted to do that.

“Can we go later?” I asked. “It’s just me after all.”

“Nope, we have to get the 6:45am train from Ollantaytambo, which is two hours from Cusco. And we can’t be late. We’ve got a strict timetable. Sorry!”

But there was an option B!

Rather than wake up in the middle of the night, I decided to head to Ollantaytambo the day before so I could sleep in until just before the train….because while Indiana Jones might be able to find artifacts on little sleep, I can’t.

Once a major Incan city, Ollantaytambo is located on the Urubamba River against high mountains, on which extensive ruins offer beautiful views of the valley. Seeing them seemed like a better option than waking up early. So I arrived in the midafternoon to explore the ruins, pack my day bags, and relax before the hike.

(Tip: Don’t go when I did! Arrive early to avoid the afternoon crowds coming from Cusco….