Anti-Atlas Mountains
Extending from the Atlantic coast to the edge of the Sahara and with a huge variety of terrain – from lush oases and valleys peppered with thyme, rosemary, argan trees and date palms to rocky gorges and arid plains – the Anti-Atlas mountains cater for even the most indecisive traveller.
Above all, however, Anti-Atlas is agadir country (the word means wall or citadel). The landscape is interspersed with these remarkable communal fortifications, once used to store grain, dates, almonds, honey and important documents. Built from stone and clay, often in almost geometric designs, they were typically set on hilltops or cliffs to provide protection from attack. The Amtoudi granaries, Aguellouy and Id Aissa are prime examples of these historic compounds.
On a rocky hillside overlooking the village (and river pools) of Amtoudi, the two granaries are connected by a mountain path and were restored in 2007 by eco-architect Salima Naji and a team of skilled local craftspeople. Contact their guardians before you set off so that they can open up for you: Muhammad for Id Aissa (+212 635 49 6084) and Fernando for Aguellouy (+212 061 146 004). Farther north, near Aït Baha, Agadir Ikounka is another architectural wonder, and a rare example of a low-level agadir, the stones jutting out from its walls acting as steps for villagers to access their stores.
Around Tafraoute, between these two sites, you’ll find excellent trekking, climbing, cycling and canyoning in the surrounding mountains. Tanalt is a pilgrimage spot for dedicated canyoners. Over millennia the mountain waters have cut deep into the rock here, leaving a string of emerald pools, though unless you’re an experienced canyoner with your own ropes, helmet and wetsuit, don’t attempt it.
Instead, head to the mountains south of Tafraoute for a refreshing dip in the waters of Aït Mansour. Tucked behind palm trees, down a short dusty path, the River Mansour stretches gently out along the valley, dappled sunlight illuminating the water and making an afternoon swim hard to resist.
Nearby, Chez Amaliya (singles/doubles from €36/€55 B&B) offers comfortable rooms overlooking a pool, and great views of La Tête du Lion rock formation from the rooftop. In the Ameln valley, it’s also within striking distance of…
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