Until last October I had only once played in the Czech Republic. That was back in 2007, and it hardly stopped raining which meant we barely squelched our way out onto any of the courses near the capital and over to the east. I was therefore excited to be returning to a country now preferring its post-revolution name, Czechia. After flying to Prague, this time I would be heading west in the country’s largest region, Bohemia.
Karlovy Vary
Bold bunkering protects the second green at Karlovy Vary
(Image credit: Karlovy Vary Golf Club)
Travelling with four other golf writers – from France, from Sweden and two from the States – our first port of call was Karlovy Vary. This is the oldest club in the country dating back to 1904, and its original course was a 9-holer. In 1933, it relocated to its current, densely-wooded site and a full 18 holes. Now, when I say densely-wooded, I do mean densely-wooded! If you’ve played it, then by comparison I would describe the Duchess’ at Woburn as very forgiving off the tee. Despite that, it’s a classy and interesting course with five par 5s and five short holes.
The thirteenth green with the clubhouse beyond
(Image credit: Karlovy Vary Golf Club)
Here we were joined by Czech professional, Klara Spilkova, winner of the 2022 Women’s Irish Open and a former world Top 100 golfer. Charming, funny and very friendly, she is a perfect ambassador for golf in her country. Witnessing my flailing, faltering attempts to get out of a greenside bunker on the penultimate hole, she kindly gave me a bunker lesson that has really paid dividends… for now, at least. Buoyed by this, I narrowly missed my birdie putt on the uphill par-5 closing hole, and I look back on this as a course that keeps improving all the way.
Rob with leading professional Klara Spilkova and optimistically-attired Swedish golf writer, Bobbi Holmen
(Image credit: Rob Smith)
That night, following an excellent dinner at the nearby award-winning Le Marché, we stayed at the Grand Hotel Pupp. This historic and stately spa hotel dates back to 1701. The English name for Karlovy Vary is Carlsbad, and the town is home to one of the world’s most prestigious film festivals with many of its visitors such as Morgan Freeman and Renee Zellweger staying here. Scenes from Casino Royale with Daniel Craig were filmed at the hotel, although bafflingly they didn’t ask me to pose for their star-studded gallery. The following morning, we enjoyed a guided walking tour of the picture…
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