A Little-Known Corner of Ireland Beckons

Less than an hour from Cork Airport, but tucked away off the main tourist trails, Ireland’s Blackwater Valley is steeped in natural splendor and Old World romance. The area gets its name from the Munster Blackwater — a deep, fast-flowing river that wends through the verdant landscape before joining the Atlantic Ocean at the medieval town of Youghal.

Flanked by the Knockmealdown Mountains to the north and blown by the fresh winds that come off the sea, the valley has its own microclimate, where the vegetation grows rich and lush, from ancient woodland to rolling pastures where the grass is so thick and green it looks almost artificial.

As well as its natural beauty, the area is known for its landmarks that range from castles to follies, and a thriving cultural scene. It’s well worth a diversion if you’re planning a trip to Ireland.

One of the most popular places to stay nearby is Ballymaloe House, home to the Ballymaloe cookery school. Many of Ireland’s top chefs trained here, and Hannah Neeleman, of Ballerina Farm fame, recently spent three months doing a cookery course there — rooms are traditional and comfortable and cost from €280 a night (about $318), depending on the season. Or, head to the 220-acre Castlemartyr Resort (rooms from €233 a night), a five-star hotel set in a large manor house right next to a ruined castle. It’s the perfect base for exploring the region and is a destination in its own right, with seven dining options, including a traditional Irish pub, the Hunted Hog.

Castlemartyr is an example of what are referred to in Ireland as “big houses” — large country homes built by wealthy Anglo-Irish landowners between the 17th and 19th centuries. In many parts of the country, they have either burned down or been left to decay and molder, but here, they are mostly still inhabited and thriving, partly because of a cohort of affluent newcomers.

Lismore Castle lies at the heart of the Blackwater Valley, both geographically and culturally. This imposing gothic edifice looms high over the banks of the river, presenting a silhouette that’s so dramatic and beautiful it looks as if it’s escaped from a film set. It’s the Irish seat of the Dukes of Devonshire — who also own Chatsworth, one of England’s largest estates. Its former inhabitants include Adele Astaire, Fred Astaire’s older sister and one of the most famous vaudeville stars of her day. She was a household name in the 1920s and 30s, before retiring from the…