It’s 6am and I’m trying to decide whether it’s the heady scent of jasmine or the jet lag that’s got me so lightheaded. Probably both. I’ve woken up at ridiculous o’clock and managed to locate the button to automatically open my curtains from the giant bed at the Jumeirah Al Arab – whilst taking in the scenery of pure white sand, sunbeds as far as the eye can see and discreet workers who are beavering away at the day’s maintenance. The mighty seven-star Jumeirah Burj Al Arab looms in my vision on its man-made island opposite my balcony.
Dubai loves a superlative: tallest tower, fastest lift, deepest pool, highest dancing fountain – and I begin my quest to discover its burgeoning art scene with the biggest breakfast. The Al Arab dining experience is something to behold, and for a city known for its belt-busting brunch experiences, that’s saying something. Saffron croissants, check. Sushi, check. Shakshuka, check.
Somewhere between a third coffee and a bite of za’atar bread, I notice the tables filling up with glamorous families in their matching baby’n’me Prada twin sets. Rather than gawp, I push my sunglasses firmly into position and prepare myself to explore Dubai’s art scene.
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My first stop is Alserkal Avenue, Dubai’s edgy, creative lung. Wedged inside Al Quoz, a district that still bears the marks of industry, it comprises gritty warehouses, greasy mechanics’ garages and large cranes suggesting exciting new developments. Crucially, it’s a world away from the Gucci tracksuits and Tesla showrooms that I expected to find here.
Founded by Emirati patron Abdelmonem Bin Eisa Alserkal, the Avenue is a defiant snub to the city’s luxury obsession and has gone from strength to strength since it opened with just one gallery, ‘Ayyam’, in 2008.
Now there are seventeen galleries and a hip crowd of Gen Z-ers wearing paint-stained Dickies and Crocs, who flaunt multi-coloured hair as they zip around on scooters. The vibe here is ultra-cool, and lunchtime brings an edgy gaggle of workers who patiently queue at the vegan café for their Ethiopian pour-over coffees.
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