Across the creek from the bright lights and skyscrapers of Dubai, I feel like I’m another world away in a quiet and still traditional Emirati-style house.
People come from all over the globe to climb the world’s tallest building, see the heaviest gold ring or to try and get their hands on the viral Dubai chocolate bar made famous on TikTok.
But there is another side of Dubai, rich with Emirati traditions, and dare I say it, even accessible on a budget.
From a dull and cold morning in the UK, it’s a shock to the system as I land in 38C heat and a city that even at 2am is busy and bustling. A drive across the creek to the historic Al Seef area transports me to some welcome tranquillity.
We are greeted at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel by Hilton with a cool glass of pomegranate juice before a golf buggy speeds us to our rooms in a low, flat-roofed building, complete with veranda offering stunning views of the lights and city skyline on the other side of the water.
Tastes, sights, sounds of old Dubai
I’ll never say no to walking in the footsteps of Beyoncé. The next morning, I follow her lead by visiting the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) in one of the oldest areas of Dubai for a feast of both food and culture.
Over a brunch that includes a chicken biryani, rice, bread and small round donuts covered in date syrup, guide Noora Al Marzooqi explains traditional hospitality in Dubai.
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Noora describes the layout of the old house and how the rooms were once used for living and hosting. She reveals that being served a small cup of coffee illustrates affection for guests – implying the hosts want you to stay with them for longer.
No questions are off limits, from clothes to traditions to headwear, as she patiently explains how local garments protect Emiratis from the searing heat while working outside.
Exploring the souks
Dubai’s oldest network of souks in the Al Khor area are another evocative way to feel the soul of the city. I find vendors selling everything from spices to gold to flowers, clothes, perfumes and…
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