I can’t help but let out an audible sigh of relief as I leave Prague behind, melting into a seat on a RegioJet train speeding southwards. The city I loved twenty years ago has lost its charm for me. And that’s not Prague’s fault – it’s mine. I wilt in crowded places these days.
Staring out of the train window at the forested hillsides, the wagons whizz towards Brno, the Czech Republic’s second city. As the capital of Moravia, one of the large historical Czech land regions, Brno is not short on medieval sites and picturesque pastel coloured buildings.
Today the city has a teeming live music scene, thriving art museums and, of course, excellent beer halls. Most importantly, there’s not a hen or stag-do in sight – this is a city that’s yet to be discovered by the crowds of tourists. These are the sites to see, and where to stay for a slice of city break heaven.
Get gothic
The pretty city is home to a cache of churches, a cathedral and a rather spooky ossuary. The 600-year-old Church of St. James has a bell tower to ascend, but my tip is to visit the forgotten and recently excavated ossuary holding centuries-old bones of plague, cholera and war victims that are now carefully piled up in four small chapel rooms in the crypt underneath St. James’. It’s one of many subterranean spaces to visit in Brno – the former prison under the 13th-century Špilberk Castle, and the labyrinth under the food market are also creepy underground places to cool off from the heat of the summer.
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Savour the hops
Brno is similar to Prague in a number of ways: architecture, language and the same flowing beer culture. Fantastic Czech beers that everyone knows and loves are sold on every corner – but without the drunk groups of sightseers. Overall, Brno is around 10 per cent cheaper than Prague, but you might experience something different during a night out sampling the flavours at Pivni Burza, aka the Beer Exchange, a pub modelled on a stock market. The prices go up and down as the night goes on, so purchase your pints at the right time or risk it and see the stock (beer) price rise.
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