When amateur photographer George Woods and his family moved down to Hastings in the 1880s, they joined a legion of Victorians migrating south from the smoggy capital in search of pure, restorative sea air.
Displayed in the Fishermen’s Museum along the seafront, his black and white images document an era when this coastal town was thriving – women wearing flamboyant bustles shade from the sun with frilly parasols, and salty sea dogs fix fishing nets while puffing on clay pipes dangling from their lips.
Even more fascinating – for me – is the fact Woods lived in my house.
Six months ago, I left London for a place where properties are still relatively affordable. Initially driven by economics, I quickly discovered the benefits of waking up to sea views and listening to gulls squealing from rooftops. An even greater find, though, was the spirit of entrepreneurial optimism that’s been disappearing from London for some time.
Like so many Victorian seaside resorts, Hastings and neighbouring St Leonards-on-Sea fell into decline during the seventies and eighties. Buildings were abandoned and facades crumbled. But artists, writers and creatives have a habit of breathing new life into decaying spaces – and that’s exactly what’s happened here.
St Leonards has led the way, with bars and restaurants trailing along the Kings Road which runs from the mainline station, where trains take an hour and 20 minutes from London Bridge. A playful vibe continues along the seafront with cool cafes like the colourful Goat Ledge serving coffees, croissants and craft beers to dog walkers, joggers and locals watching waves crash along the pebbly shore.
Following suit, main town Hastings is slowly reinventing itself. Located along the pier, which was renovated and reopened in 2016 following a devastating fire, the Samphire Sauna serves anyone keen to embrace hot/cold therapy with a dip in the English Sea. A few metres away, boards can be heard cracking against concrete in The Source skatepark. Head down to the courtyard where the local Brewing Brothers Brewery serve their beers on tap.
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