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Steep dreams: my tried and tested sleeping system for Denali

My sleeping system for Denali laid out at home

My sleeping system for Denali worked a treat and ensured I always enjoyed a good night’s sleep on North America’s highest peak

The coldest I have ever been in my life was while climbing Denali – hardly surprising considering it’s one of the coldest and windiest places in the USA. During the expedition, there were several times when I felt the cold intensely, so much so that I even suffered some mild frostbite on my fingers after we were delayed on the fixed ropes for several hours. That said, I was never cold when safely cocooned in my sleeping bag. 

For this expedition, I updated my sleeping system completely. Every piece of kit was new. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I ever made when it came to camping. I slept soundly every night and while the lack of oxygen at the higher camps may have been discomfiting at times, the cold never kept me awake. Despite making my bed on a glacier for 18 nights in a row, my new sleeping system meant that I was always warm, cosy and able to get a good night’s sleep even in temperatures as low as -30°C (-22°F). 

Sleeping system for Denali

It’s not rocket science that being well-rested improves performance, particularly on a long and challenging expedition. Below, I share details of my complete sleeping system for Denali and how I stayed warm on one of the world’s most hostile mountains.

My sleeping system for Denali laid out at home
Atlas & Boots My sleeping system for Denali

Sleeping bag

A sleeping bag for Denali should be rated to -30°C (-22°F). I went further and opted for a Marmot CWM Sleeping Bag rated to -40°C (-40°F). It may be the last sleeping I ever buy and could be used on future expeditions such as Everest or Vinson if I ever make it to them.

Inside, the bag is filled with 800-fill-power premium down while the outside is lined with a waterproof membrane which did a great job of keeping me dry. Every morning, I woke up to find hoarfrost – frozen condensation – lining every surface in the tent including the outside of my sleeping bag. However, even after it melted during the day, the moisture never got inside the bag. 

The Marmot CWM has a centre zip which I found much more comfortable than a side zip. It also makes it easier to get in and out of the bag. There are dual side zippers for ventilation which you can put your arms through if required. Inside the bag, there are several internal storage pockets, including one which is zippered, ideal for keeping electronics…

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