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How new brews are stirring up Turkey’s tea paradise

Much of Turkey's tea comes from the lush plantations of Rize province.

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(CNN) — Atop a terrifyingly steep mountain in northeastern Turkey, the village of Haremtepe resembles an island surrounded by a vast ocean of green: verdant, bushy rows of tea plantations continue as far as the misty skies fleetingly allow to be seen.

Dozens of local tea pickers, almost entirely hidden among the hillside’s deep green vegetation, quickly and efficiently pluck the glistening leaves and deposit them into large fabric sacks slung over their shoulders before the next deluge begins.

“This place is special,” says Kenan Çiftçi, the owner of a tea plantation and cafe in the vertiginously placed village. “Normally, tea can only be grown in equatorial areas. But the microclimate of the area, lots of sun and rain, means that tea can thrive.”

Here and all across Rize — a fertile province bordering the Black Sea that is known for its humid climate, monsoon-like rains and breathtaking vistas — is where the majority of tea is cultivated in what is the world’s biggest nation of tea-drinkers.

The Brits and Chinese, steeped in tea history, may get more attention, but Turkey (or Türkiye as it now call itself) has by some estimates the highest consumption per capita in the world — the average Turk consumes four kilograms of the leaf a year, according to the International Tea Committee, the equivalent of its 85 million people drinking four glasses a day.

‘Culinary pleasure’

Much of Turkey’s tea comes from the lush plantations of Rize province.

Ruslan Kalnitsky/Adobe Stock

Brewed in a samovar-style utensil called a çaydanlık, the potent loose-leaf black tea is usually sipped from small, tulip-shaped glasses at very regular occurrences. At the same time, the traditional technique for brewing Turkish tea — using a particular “double-boiling” system of two kettles stacked atop one another — can take a long time to prepare, and so goes hand in hand with the often slower pace of Turkish life.

“The consumption of tea is as much a social activity as it is a culinary pleasure,” says Hüseyin Karaman, rector of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan University in Rize, which earlier this year launched a Tea Library that holds 938 books dedicated to the drink. “It’s the glue that holds together all the people in our society.”

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