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Bologna city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Italy’s gastronomic haven

Bologna city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Italy’s gastronomic haven


Famously underrated, this gourmet’s haven is Italy’s seventh largest city, full of jaw-dropping medieval architecture and sweeping piazzas. The city shimmers with vibrant activity, its world-class cultural institutions hosting year-round events for a buzzy populus of students and intellectuals.

There’s a distinct lack of mass tourism, too – you won’t see coachloads of day-trippers or gallery queues – so you can simply fall into the flow of locals (especially if you add some Italian to your repertoire). Beloved by its country folk, Bologna has not one but three nicknames; La Dotta (‘The Learned’) in honour of its 11th-century university, hailed as the oldest in Europe; La Rossa (‘The Red’) for the city’s leftist politics; and, most importantly, La Grassa (‘The Fat’), a nod to its notoriety as Italy’s foodie capital.

What to do

Eat your way around town

Top priority on any trip to Bologna is the local food and knowing where to eat it. “Bolognese’’ is known regionally as Tagliatelle al Ragù, and it goes without saying that its origin city serves a life affirming plate of the good stuff. The other quintessential Bologna dish is tortellini in broth – usually chicken – which is just as comforting as you’d imagine a pasta chicken soup to be. Making reservations for dinner plans is a must, now more so than ever (check out our ‘Where to Eat’ section below for some recommendations to get you started) but you may well want to make a day of it, visiting the food markets, or booking yourself a food tour and cookery class with veteran guides at Taste Bologna or Delicious Bologna tours.

Take in the architecture

Bologna is home to a roster of fine Renaissance buildings spared by the developers of bygone eras, from the Unesco-listed porticos (roofed walkways) that frame the old university as well as Piazzas Maggiore and Santo Stefano, to a total of 20 towers – most notably ‘Le Due Torri’ of Asinelli Tower and Garisenda Tower. Ascend the former for heart-lifting city views, and note how the latter has even more of a lean than its Pisan counterpart. Factor in a stroll around the illustrious main square of Piazza Maggiore to take in the layer-cake Basilica of San Petronio, as well as the knockout palazzos that surround it.

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