Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.
Although you’ve probably been through Athens’ bustling waterfront on your way to catch a jam-packed ferry to one of Greece’s islands, it would come as no surprise to find that you didn’t choose to linger in Europe’s largest port.
Over the past few years, however, Piraeus’ once tatty and trashy backstreets have had a much-needed makeover, with art galleries, bougie hotels, hip tavernas and designer boutiques popping up all over. There’s even a gleaming new tram that whisks you here from the city centre in 15 minutes.
As the grime has been washed away, travellers have started to discover what Athenians have know for decades: this brine-bathed, under-the-radar seaside suburb is one of the city’s best kept secrets.
From spectacular hilltop hangouts and hip seafood joints to cool bars overlooked by ancient ruins and quirky museums, here’s why you should consider missing that ferry the next time round – in favour of 24 hours in vibrant Piraeus.
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Get into the arty vibe
It’s always a good sign when a bunch of hip galleries move into a neighbourhood, and Piraeus is no exception. Housed in a warren of warehouse buildings along cobble-lined Polidefkou Street – once part of an Egyptian bazaar – you’ll find a string of world class galleries. Don’t miss Rodeo (it’s the sister of Istanbul’s).
Climb to the Kastella
It’s a tough hike, but this hilltop neighbourhood has paved streets as steep as San Francisco’s, fringed with pastel-coloured Neoclassical mansions – so bring your camera. It’s also the best place anywhere in the city to sip ouzo in a traditional kafeneion (Greece’s low-key, local-vibes bar-cafés) as you watch ferries bumbling over the blue sheet of the Saronic Gulf, spread out far below.
(Cine Votsalakia)
Browse the quirky railway museum
You don’t need to be a trainspotter to enjoy Piraeus’ Electric Railways Museum. Piraeus’s lofty ceilinged Art Deco railway terminal is the perfect backdrop for this fascinating collection (from meticulously restored railway carriages to antique ticket machines) which is the lifetime’s hoard of a former Piraeus railway…
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