Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.
Long before Tel Aviv even existed, there was Jaffa. This port town, found just south of Israel’s high-octane second city, is so ancient that it’s mentioned in the New Testament and Egyptian literature from 1440BC. Even Jonah, the prophet who got swallowed by a whale, is said to have started his near-fatal voyage from here.
Over time, many of Jaffa’s residents and businesses moved north, following the expansion of — and annexation by — modern, metropolitan Tel Aviv, leaving Jaffa’s crumbling streets ripe for gentrification. Artists’ studios took over century-old homes and Ottoman-era factory buildings, while hip restaurants and five-star hotels sprang up in ornate and atmospheric surroundings.
Today, Jaffa is a hotbed for Israeli and Arab creativity and one of Israel’s few “mixed cities”, where Arabs make up about 37 per cent of the residents. The port is a short taxi-hop or 3km stroll from downtown Tel Aviv, making it a popular area for a half-day trip from the city.
The beach in Jaffa, near Tel Aviv
( Dana Friedlander/Israeli Ministry of Tourism)
Do
Stroll around Old Jaffa
A walk through the higgledy-piggledy alleys of Old Jaffa, a labyrinthine jumble of limestone steps and arched gateways, feels like a time machine to the Jaffa of centuries ago. Enter through the well-marked staircase from Jaffa Port’s corniche to weave through the cobblestoned lanes, where jewellery ateliers, art galleries and tearooms have popped up over the past few years. History buffs shouldn’t skip the palm-fringed St Peter’s Church, initially built in 1654 and rebuilt in the late 19th century. Come sunset, head up to the hilltop in Abrasha Park for fabulous views over the Mediterranean, and Tel Aviv’s shimmering skyline.
Join a culinary tour
For a deep dive into the cultures that shape modern-day Jaffa, a food and walking tour around the district is the way to go. Delicious Israel’s guides will take you through its culinary highlights at a leisurely pace, teaching you everything there is to know about Turkish-inspired malabi pudding, cheesy Palestinian knafeh desserts, and the right way to…
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