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Help Me, LP! Is Tahiti suitable for an independent traveler?

Beach view of Mt Otemanu in Tahiti

In this series, Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors answers your travel problems and provides tips and hacks to help you plan a hassle-free trip. This week, Lonely Planet senior editor Melissa Yeager shares some tips for visiting Tahiti for non-honeymooners. 

Question: I want to visit Tahiti, but it’s not a honeymoon, and I’m not into resorts and packaged holidays. Is there any way to explore the islands more independently?

Melissa Yeager: My colleagues here at LP turned this one over to me this week because I’m actually in the middle of planning a trip to Tahiti and French Polynesia. It’s not my honeymoon either but I am counting down the days until I can hike, swim and soak in the sun in those idyllic waters.

But I get where you’re coming from. With its dreamy above-water bungalows and tranquil lagoons with crystal clear water, the islands of Tahiti have become so synonymous with honeymoons on Instagram that merely mentioning you’re visiting these islands to a friend may immediately conjure visions of lovebirds fresh off the stress of planning a wedding. 

And if the luxe resorts and celebrity sightings of Bora Bora are not your vibe (or budget) – you might wonder if this is a place to visit.  

Tahiti and French Polynesia on a budget

Beach view of Mt Otemanu in Tahiti © Maridav / Shutterstock

The many ways to travel in Tahiti

There are more than 118 islands that make up the country of Tahiti – so the good news is there are plenty of options that are not Bora Bora and there are lots of ways to make this an independent, island-hopping adventure. 

For instance, you can get between Pape’ete and the island of Mo’orea by ferry. To get to some of the more remote islands, Air Tahiti (note: this is different from the carrier Air Tahiti Nui that flies internationally) offers inter-island air passes. You can pick one of their itineraries with prearranged passes or you can chart your own path.

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Nuku Hiva Island, French Polynesia © age fotostock / Getty Images

A variety of accommodation options for all budgets 

In terms of accommodation, there’s also a lot more to French Polynesia than just the posh, mega resorts that pop up on social media – places that if you’re willing to adventure to some of the lesser traveled spots can offer a unique connection to this country and its natural beauty while supporting small, family-owned businesses.  

To do this, choose a Tahitian guesthouse called pensions (Tahiti Tourisme says this is…

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