Marseille city guide: Where to eat, sleep and drink in France’s cool, coastal second city

France’s second largest city has shaken off its downtrodden image in recent years to become one of the country’s coolest spots for a weekend break. Located less than three and a half hours by train from Paris, it’s a popular weekend and summer spot for Parisians who head down south in search of sun, sea, and arguably the most exciting culinary scene outside of the capital.

But make no mistake: Marseille has an energy and a charm that’s a world away from France’s more haughty capital. This rough-and-ready port city is a blend of cultures, with a vibrant daily market where you’re as likely to find North African snacks, pastries and flatbreads as you are fat olives and whole fish. The old port is a delight to wander around, while Marseille’s tenure as the European Capital of Culture in 2013 has left its mark in the form of the fabulous Mucem designed by Rudy Ricciotti (read more below) and the iconic Port Vieux Pavilion, a giant mirrored canopy.

Here’s how to make the most of a trip to this slice of coastal cool.

What to do

Head to the museums

Before the arrival of Mucem, Marseille’s culture offering was seriously lacking, but the city finally has a national museum to call its own. The now iconic building, designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti and encased in a high tech, super resistant concrete lattice, houses a collection of anthropological artefacts which explore the history of Mediterranean cultures. In addition to the permanent exhibitions, the museum hosts around six temporary ones each year, drawing world-famous artists such as Jeff Koons and Ai Weiwei to Marseille to make their own links between ancient civilisations and modern art.

Just next door is Cosquer Méditerranée, an underground replica of a large cave discovered back in 1985 by French diver Henri Cosquer on the coast of Marseille. The engravings, paintings, and handprints made on the walls of the cave  33,000 years ago are quite amazing, and the audio headset gives excellent information to bring it to life.

Musée Regards de Provence showcases local artists and their interpretations of Marseille and the surrounding region. Architecture fans may also appreciate the story of the gallery’s modernist-style building which, in a previous life, was a rather severe medical centre called La Station Sanitaire,…