How to train for mountaineering: a seven-step plan

Ahead of his attempt on Denali, Peter shares expert advice on how to train for mountaineering expeditions

I climbed my first high-altitude mountain back in 2010. At 5,895m (19,340ft), Kilimanjaro is Africa’s highest peak and while I had some hillwalking behind me, I had no prior experience of trekking at altitude, wasn’t fit enough and didn’t have the right gear. In hindsight, I was fortunate to make the summit considering I was so underprepared.

Thirteen years later, I’ve climbed four of the seven summits including Elbrus and Aconcagua and completed several high-altitude treks such as Everest base camp and K2 base camp. I have backpacks full of outdoor gear and am fitter now at 39 years old than I ever was in my twenties. That said, I need to up my game for my next target: Denali, the highest peak in North America at 6,194m (20,322ft).

Denali is arguably the second hardest mountain of the seven summits. It is an extremely challenging campaign as climbers must carry heavy loads throughout, particularly at the beginning of the expedition where they must carry a 25kg backpack and haul a 25kg sledge over a crevasse-strewn glacier to camp one. The notoriously stormy and unpredictable weather on a mountain located at 63° North – just 3° degrees south of the Arctic Circle – makes it even tougher. This means I need to be significantly fitter and stronger.

When it comes to high-altitude mountaineering, there are no shortcuts to the top. There’s no substitute for spending time in the mountains – and living in London doesn’t lend itself to the ideal preparation! This means putting in some serious gym time over the next 12 months.

How to train for mountaineering: a seven-step plan

After extensive research, I’ve put in place the following seven-step plan which will hopefully get me to the summit of Denali.

1. Choose a training plan

For a while, I considered hiring a personal trainer but then I met another would-be seven summiteer who was about to embark on a six-month training program for Everest. He shared some advice and after a little research of my own, I signed up for a training program with Uphill Athlete who specialise in training plans specifically for high-altitude mountaineers and alpinists.

The 24-week expeditionary mountaineering training plan is tailored for those planning to attempt high-altitude summits such as Denali or…