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Getting around in Panama – Lonely Planet

Vividly colorful chicken buses waiting for passengers in Panama

The breadth of Panama is so slender you can cross it in about an hour by car, but that doesn’t mean this Central American gem isn’t packed full of attractions. It’s one of the most biologically diverse places on earth, yet small enough to fit inside South Carolina. 

Despite the tropical setting, getting around Panama is easy enough. The country boasts thousands of kilometers of paved roads, a modern bus network, water taxis, an innovative new Metro train in the capital – and, of course, the Panama Canal. 

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Be aware that some parts of Panama are so remote that your only option may be to travel down a crocodile-infested river in a rickety canoe or hack through the undergrowth with a machete. Whether you choose to play it safe or go wild, here’s our guide to getting around Panama. 

Use buses to travel long distances

Panama has an affordable and extensive bus network connecting all major mainland destinations. Most intercity buses are 28-seat Toyota Coasters with icy air-conditioning and raucous salsa music. Bulky luggage is strapped to the roof, and there’s an assistant called a pavo (literally, ‘turkey’) to collect fares and help out. The long-distance buses connecting Panama City and David are the best in Central America.

You’ll also find chivas – converted cattle or pickup trucks with hard benches and tarpaulin coverings to keep off the rain. Chivas are typically only seen on the most remote rural routes. Then there are diablo rojos (red devils) – old US school buses, also known as ‘chicken buses’ – glammed up with neon lights and gaudy artwork.

Chicken buses have been nearly phased out in Panama City but continue to operate in a few areas, including along the central Caribbean Coast. 

Most towns and cities have a downtown terminal. Elsewhere, buses pick up and drop off passengers at concrete shelters on the roadside. Stick out your thumb to flag down a passing bus, and yell “parada” (‘stop’) when you want to get off.

Panama’s vividly colorful “chicken buses” are slowly being phased out, but you’ll still find them on the central Caribbean Coast © Milosz Maslanka / Shutterstock

Tips for traveling out of Panama City by bus

In Panama City, intercity buses depart from the large La Gran Terminal Nacional de Transporte de Panamá in Albrook – a modern, well-designed terminal with a shopping mall and a Metro station attached. 

Every bus…

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