All lantern-lit limestone alleys, pealing bell towers and russet rooftops, ancient Dubrovnik remains a show-stopper. But if it were a show, the tickets would be perennially sold out – from May to September, you’ll find yourself jostling through crowds along its beautiful Stradun (the main promenade, in ivory-white limestone) and towering city walls. Consider going off-season for a more mellow introduction: up to mid-April and past late September is safest, though you may want to head there in warmer months to make the most of its pretty shingle beaches.
The walled old town – parts of it dating back to the early 14th century – is framed by cascading green coastline, with cypress and olive trees, stone cottages and sea-view restaurants to take in along the way. And remember: pack your comfiest trainers or sandals for this city of steep steps and dramatic slopes. Nearby are two more modern suburbs you can stay in, plus ample ferries onward to Dalmatia’s pretty islands. But first, your city checklist: here are the highlights.
Do
City walls
Dubrovnik’s number one sight is visible from the ground, but a whole different world opens up once you climb the (considerable) steps to the top. There are 1,940 metres of these immaculately preserved city walls, dating back to various parts of the 12th-17th centuries, which rise to around 25 metres at their tallest.
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Stroll the bridge-like tops and climb several taller forts to get a blustery, 360-degree view of the city and coastline. Many visitors cluster at the western corner to see Lovrijenac Fort, which played the part of Red Keep in King’s Landing in TV series Game of Thrones, but there’s also a cute cafe on the sea-facing portion. It’s worth waiting for a clear day for this one – once you buy a ticket (which gets you onto the walls, into the Foundry Museum and Lovrijenac Fort), you can use it within three days.
Adults €35 (£30)/children 7+ €15 (£13); dpds.hr
Srd cable car
When it opened in 1969, this was the Adriatic’s only cable car
(Getty Images/iStockphoto)
More dazzling views. Use a clear afternoon to glide smoothly up the Srd hillside on this 30-person cable car. Going at golden hour is most soothing, to see the sunlight dance on the Adriatic as you rise above an ant-sized Old City. It costs a bit, but you can take a breather at the top…
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