Granada city guide: Best things to do and where to stay in Spain’s magical Moorish centre

Many aspects of Granada come in threes. The city is set over three main hills: the Albaicín, Sabika and Sacromonte. These hills are wedged between two additional topographies: the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, which loom above the city, and the fertile vega plains below, which sustained the Moors for centuries.

The majestic Alhambra, crowning Sabika hill, is also split into three sections: the Alcazaba (fortress), the Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces), and the Generalife (palace gardens). They form one of Europe’s great tourism glories.

The old Arabic quarter, Albaicín, peers out towards the Alhambra, while the Sacromonte is a stronghold for the gitano culture so beloved by, and influential to, local son, poet Federico García Lorca. This culture is epitomised by the clack of the castanet and the soulful strum of flamenco guitars.

When you’re not exploring these locations, you’ll likely be sampling the local cuisine. Thankfully, Granada is one of the last strongholds of the generous (and fading) “free tapa with a drink” deal.

Here’s how to make the most of a trip to this underrated Spanish city.

What to do

Seek perfection at the Alhambra

Although the Spanish recaptured most of the Iberian peninsula by the 13^th century, the Moors clung to Granada largely without conflict until 1492. It’s as though that uneasy peace for two centuries was more palatable to the Christian monarchs than the prospect of damaging the now Unesco-listed Alhambra in battle.

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This wistfully romantic complex is the pinnacle of the Moors’ mastery of geometry and design. Some of Spain’s finest artisans came from Granada during this time and their best work was undoubtedly saved for this stunning relic.

Dedicate the better part of a day to visiting. Entry to the Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces), where the emirs lived, is by timed ticket to prevent overcrowding. The Alcazaba fortress is the oldest part of the site and holds the higher ground, while the Generalife gardens reveal the penchant in this oasis of arid Andalucía for fountains; at certain parts of the day, water runs down the streets from the Alhambra in tiny channels, an extravagance designed to emphasise the Moors’ wealth.

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