A lover of cold, wild, mountainous places, Lonely Planet writer Kerry Walker headed to Norway’s southern fjords to find the true meaning of “friluftsliv” (outdoor living). Here she shares a snapshot of her adventures.
Ever since I first set foot in Norway a decade ago, I’ve dreamed of visiting the fjords proper. Summer’s crowds and cruise boats would not be for me, so instead, I decided to piece together my own itinerary from Stavanger to Bergen in late spring. And I found a region of rare beauty, with thundering rivers, flint-blue fjords and glacier-encrusted peaks – all ripe for adventure.
Rock up in May or early June, and you’ll have much of the region to yourself. The fjords are at their photogenic best at this time of year, with the landscape bursting into blossom, waterfalls raging away as the ice melts, snow still on the summits and light nights allowing you to eke out every precious moment.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
I stayed in four different places. All back-to-nature escapes with incredible views. Haukali33/3 has a calm simplicity that recalls a bygone era. I spent a happy off-grid night in a turf-roofed husmannshus (cottage). Owner Reidunn has converted her grandfather’s farm into a silent lakeside hideaway. Here you can swim, hike, mountain gaze and fish for trout in the family rowboat. By night you’re rocked to sleep by the sound of a thousand sheep bells. It’s glorious.
I was also lucky enough to stay in one of the slick new, architect-designed Star Lodges at The Bolder, clinging to the cliffs above Lysefjord. Hidden above a fairy-tale forest, with a front-row view of Ryfylke fjords, Tveita Adventure was pretty magical, too. And I’ll never forget the night I spent 10m up in a pine tree above the town of Odda at the Sørfjorden at Woodnest – the treehouse of childhood dreams.
Most memorable meal?
Sushi at Michelin-starred Sabi Omakase in Stavanger, where chef Roger Joya puts Nordic riffs on some of the most exquisite seafood you’ll ever eat. The seductively lit restaurant is tiny, with space for just 10 lucky guests. In the open kitchen, chefs prepare each bite-sized course with meticulous care. Langoustines…
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