One of my favourite Mexico City hangouts is La Opera, a historic restaurant famous for its sopa de tortilla, red velvet booths and frescoed ceilings pockmarked with bullets fired by Pancho Villa in 1914. The Mexican revolutionary was apparently offended by the opulence of the venue, with its hand-carved walnut bar shipped from New Orleans, and fired off a few rounds to express his displeasure.
I can’t help but think he’d be more supportive of the latest trend shaping Mexico City’s food scene – a determination to showcase homegrown produce in new, innovative ways. Davide Preziuso, Andaz Mexico City Condesa’s executive chef, is particularly excited about the current passion for sustainable seafood.
“I’m trying to show people that it’s not just about salmon and sea bass,” says Davide during a chat on the hotel’s rooftop, with its colourful food truck. “Personally, I love Mexico’s octopus – you can fish it without having a massive impact.” This approach has allowed Mexico to showcase its offerings to new audiences. “The Japanese have started buying our octopus and red tuna,” says Davide. Granted, Japan ordering plane-loads of seafood doesn’t scream sustainability, but it’s a reminder that much of Mexico’s bounty remains untapped.
Joe Gelato boasts some seriously niche flavours
(Tamara Hinson)
Davide believes the Juárez neighbourhood could soon steal Condesa’s crown when it comes to culinary coolness. Until recently, Juárez was the place to buy (mostly stolen) car parts. Shady types who came for pre-loved pistons made it a no-go zone, but a recent influx of entrepreneurs lured by cheap rent kick-started its transformation. Recent newcomers include Masala y Maiz, where Saqib Keval and Norma Listman serve up Indian Mexican fusion cuisine. Soho House’s first Latin American outpost opens here in late 2023.
Another culinary genius putting Juárez on the map is José Luis Cervantes, founder of Joe Gelato, a gelateria with walls daubed with graffiti-style illustrations about gelato production. José set up shop here after working as a chef in Sydney and Tokyo, followed by a stint at Bologna’s Carpigiani Gelato University.
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Like Davide, José’s keen to showcase Mexico’s lesser-known treasures. His mezcal gelato is legendary, although agave-based gelato is now standard fare…
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