Geylang Road in central Singapore is synonymous with the night, when a dizzying number of neon street signs power on and large groups crowd tables that spill out onto the sidewalk. It’s a tasty spot for a nocturnal stroll, to discover vespertine feasts of local specialties, like crab doused in a bracing white-pepper sauce or steamy porridge showcasing marinated frog legs.
“In Singapore, eating is a national past time,” said Dr. Lily Kong, a professor of social sciences at Singapore Management University. “It provides a sense of pride; it is a locus of community.” Hawker centers, or food halls filled with dozens of stalls that peddle affordable and quickly prepared eats, were recognized by UNESCO in 2020 as part of the city-state’s intangible cultural heritage. The cuisine is informed by the country’s dominant ethnic groups — Chinese, Malay, Indian — and many of its famous dishes, such as Hainanese chicken rice, flaunt a blend of multicultural flavors and are claimed as distinctly Singaporean.
The gritty Geylang neighborhood doesn’t have the gleaming skyscrapers or carefully manicured streets that characterize much of Singapore; it is where the pursuits of sex and food coexist. The road’s even-numbered side streets have legal brothels regulated by the government, while steps away families and tourists meander along the main road to dine on durian, dim sum, kaya toast and achingly sweet coffee, or satay ordered by the dozen.
The food here features Chinese, Indonesian or Peranakan flavors, representative of the immigrant communities clustered in Geylang, said Cai Yinzhou, a 32-year-old Geylang resident who gives tours of the neighborhood.
“We have pulled from all different parts of the world because we have the diversity of the people who are present here,” said Mr. Cai of the origins of the local cuisine.
Sample the bounty of flavors yourself on a 1.6-mile stretch of Geylang Road, on an eating-and-walking tour that hits some of the most appetizing establishments. You’ll want to start in the early evening, when most stalls at hawker centers are still bustling. Then see where your whims and appetite take you. Your journey can last an hour or six, as skewers and sweets and everything in between will equally entice. Expect only a nominal effect on your wallet (though choice crab dishes will cost a bit more) and make sure to bring Singapore dollars. Finally, as in any major city, keep your wits about you and go with a companion or three if…
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