The Best Place to Drink Is the Emptiest Bar in the City

A decade on, I talk about this when I see old friends at hotel bars. It’s the kind of conversation we wouldn’t be able to have at a dark place full of thrum, or a pop-song bar with ironic cocktails. I like hotel bars because I want to try to hear voices; not the little barks and repetitions shuffled around in loud music and crowd clamor — that simultaneity of sound I no longer tune into. Not color patter about our fellow drinkers. Instead, I want a real connection, a friendly intimacy. In a leather half-booth, in the emptiest bar in the city, there is no impetus to be decorous. The sorrows we pour out won’t get absorbed in cacophony. In all the world there’s only us.

Hotel bars are the mudrooms of the city, a place by the entrance, a liminality, where most people linger but briefly, at the start or the end of the night: business travelers on their laptops, sex workers on their phones, elderly couples growing amorous, thirsty parents on a break from their kids, entertainers with odd hours. They’re places you can tell the truth, over nuts and standard-issue wine. I should clarify that I don’t mean fancy hotel bars — not the Ace, or even the W; not a storied corner like Bemelmans at the Carlyle. Nothing chic and nothing stuffy and nothing raw; not the blaring screens of sports bars, nor the hoary formica of busy dives. For now, a Marriott will do, a run-down Hilton, someplace there’s nothing worth stealing or being looked at. Where the carpet rebuffs your gaze, and where you don’t care if the spider plant on the empty bookshelves is real — it’s beside the point if it’s real. When I touch down in a city where I have friends to catch up with — voices I’m desperate to hear — I start by searching for hotels, double-checking to be sure they won’t be swarming with conventioneers.

But the soft leather booths and patterned carpets of a previous century are disappearing at speed. As Kate Wagner describes in The Atlantic, restaurants, bars and coffee shops are increasingly made of materials like slate and metal, with high ceilings: “The result is a loud space that renders speech unintelligible.” Because these new places are stylish but uncomfortable, they generate higher turnover, thus higher profits. Once everything is Instagrammable, nothing will be audible.

When that day comes, there will be no place where my old friend Jen can whisper about the romance novels she quietly plans to start writing — but whisper in a way I can…