Perpignan has hogged the limelight for centuries. First as the mainland capital of the kings of Mallorca until 1349, then as Catalonia’s second city (after Barcelona) until the region was annexed to France in 1659. By the early 20th century, it was attracting the most notable artists of the time, including Picasso, Lurçat and Dalí. After a fall from grace in the concrete, post-war years, the old town has been re-pedestrianised and is reclaiming its artistic heritage.
Not quite French, nor Spanish, but thoroughly Catalan, this city is as bright and vibrant as the red and yellow striped flags that adorn the colourful buildings.
What to do
The Art Deco mansion that is L’Hôtel Pams is one of the city’s main attractions
(Mateo)
There’s an undisputed highlight in Perpignan and that’s L’Hôtel Pams. The Art Deco mansion was the residence of Pierre Bardou, who made his fortune producing JOB cigarette papers, and was redesigned by his daughter Jeanne and her politician husband, Jules Pams. Eccentric, opulent and decorated with wall frescoes from head to toe, Hôtel Pams is like a mash-up between London’s Leighton House and the Sistine Chapel. It’s small enough to visit in 20 minutes, but if the weather is fine (and it often is in Perpignan), take a book and camp out in the courtyard garden on the first floor.
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From here, travel right back to Perpignan’s heyday as the continental seat of the Mallorcan monarchy. Le Palais des Rois de Majorque may seem bare at first glance (it was used as army barracks for decades) but the original wall paintings that have been uncovered, dating from as early as the 13th century, are remarkable. If visiting in July or August, keep an eye on their events schedule; there are regular open-air concerts, and the palace will be hosting the two-day Catalan music festival, Festa Majorque.
Winding your way back into the old town, it’s a short hop to Cathédrale-Saint-Jean-Baptiste. The stained-glass windows catch the eye, but don’t miss the organ with its cartoonish (and not terribly politically correct) Moorish head, whose mouth opens and closes as the organ is played.
Finish up with a journey through Perpignan’s artistic heritage at Musée Hyacinthe-Rigaud. There’s everything from classical portraits of Louis XIV to Impressionism to photo exhibitions of Picasso’s many…
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