Unwrapping Kefalonia’s grown-up side: How the Captain Corelli Greek island went from sleepy to sophisticated

There seems to be an unspoken rule that you can’t mention the Ionian isle of Kefalonia without also mentioning Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Louis de Bernières’ 1994 literary gem (and 2001 film) set on the island against the backdrop of WWII. Even though it’s been nearly 30 years since the novel’s debut, no fewer than three people brought it up to me during a recent trip, which is fair enough.

Casting the island as a rustically charming and authentically Greek destination, the story has helped cement Kefalonia’s reputation as a firm holiday favourite among the British. But these days, there’s more to talk about. A crop of smart new openings, from restaurants to retreats, has infused the quiet island with a breath of fresh air; one that’s decidedly more grown-up, sophisticated and three-dimensional.

“One of my early summer memories is the island flooded by Italian tourists, who lived in basic-service rooms and used to pay the rental fee by selling the fish they caught while scuba diving,” says Gavriela Danali, the owner (and interior designer) of the three-bedroom, bohemian-chic Villa Arterra in the sleepy village of Makriotika. “But Kefalonia has been obviously upgraded in the last years, with visitors looking for sophisticated accommodations and fine dining.”

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Spurred on by this new demand, Danali opened her villa in 2018. She credits the increase in direct flights from European destinations for driving tourism (the airport was upgraded in 2019, which no doubt also helped). A mix of antiques amd modern style housed within a building made of local stone, this villa is emblematic of the island’s new calibre of tourists: yes, they want upmarket Korres toiletries and designer kitchens, but they also still want the authentic, raw Ionian experience, in rugged hillside villages where there are more goats than people.

Kefalonia’s forested, green interior has its charms, but it’s easy to get swept away by the famous beaches. Fifteen minutes from Makriotika is Myrtos, the beach of postcard recognition, with blindingly white pebbles and water the iridescent blue-green of a peacock’s breast, while Sami – another island favourite – is 20 minutes away.