Being on holiday is all about indulgence and relaxation. But if you delve into the culture of your destination, you’ll find it all the more enriching, enlightening and enjoyable. This is especially true of Portugal’s precious oceanic possession, the island of Madeira. Since humans first settled here in 1419, they have been coming up with innovations that improve the island for locals and visitors alike. And new ideas have continued into the 21st century.
Design Centre: A visionary approach
The most exciting cultural development of the past decade in Madeira? I reckon it’s the Design Centre. A former fort on what was once an island overlooking the Bay of Funchal has been transformed. It’s the work of Nini Andrade Silva, a globally recognised designer who happens to be from the island’s capital. She won the worldwide competition to transform the centuries-old fortification into “a place of meeting and sharing – a laboratory of ideas” . It has a permanent exhibition, part of her private collection – with works that are strong, almost organic, and which guide the eye to appreciate every curve and contour.
The bold, straight line anchors the designs. “I used to dream and then walk to my dreams and then dream again and walk to my dream,” Nini told me. A line leading to one’s dreams is a constant concept in Nini’s work. And to add to the sense that this is a dream location, there’s an excellent bar and restaurant, providing a fine perspective on the island’s capital, Funchal.
Art of a waiter: Would you like a watercolour with that?
The common ground between art and gastronomy is also revealed at Il Vivaldi, a Funchal restaurant perched close to the water. Vivid works of art turn it into a gallery that happens to serve food. Everything you see on the walls has been painted by the head waiter, Carlos Duarte. “Madeira is special for an artist,” he says. And after you’ve dined, you can buy one of Carlos’s original works.
City at the edge of the world: Funchal old town
(Simon Calder)
When Madeira was first settled in the early 15th century, the island was the edge of the known world. Its capital, Funchal, was something of a prototype for the Americas. Today the island’s capital is draped beautifully across an amphitheatre that tumbles down to the harbour. In the narrow streets of the original settlement, you can find plenty of street art. The city’s highlights include the cathedral, which has a magnificently decorated interior…
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