A road trip is all about the views; and what view could be better than the constantly changing sea? Choose a coastal exploration of the USA’s most northeasterly states – and edging into southern Canada – and you get to experience a slice of North America that is defined by its relationship to water, whether through sublime seafood or opportunities to get on or in it yourself.
On an epic driving holiday that felt like the road less travelled, taking in Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Nova Scotia, the seascape was the one constant. Whether the ocean was rising metres in the blink of an eye, tossing me about in a raft, raging at night a few feet away, perfectly still and punctuated by tiny remote islands in the distance, lapping yachts or providing impromptu swim spots, it was always there.
Here’s my pick of the can’t-miss-them top spots at each destination.
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Portland is a working port that’s full of brownstone buildings and wharf conversions. Imagine cobblestone streets and rusty fire escapes hanging off red-brick walls, clapboard suburbs and beautiful bay views. The streets hum with the sound of tourists’ murmurs of appreciation of the upscale boho boutiques and ring with the cry of “Oh I could definitely live here!”. Only two hours from Boston Logan International airport, this is a great place for your first whiff of salty sea air.
Boothbay in Maine delivers a dose of vitamin sea
(Visit Maine/Nick Cote)
Boothbay Harbor is an hour north of Portland and sits at the tip of one of many peninsulas that jut into the Atlantic Ocean. It’s all about water here; land is separated by inlets, coastal islands, tidal rivers and harbours and it’s a great place to kayak, sail or whale watch. It’s characterful too; a woman sells 50c lemonade from her house halfway along a wooden bridge across the harbour, and secondhand books are traded from a stoop on the main street. Five miles out of town is Ocean Point, where low tide reveals seaweedy rocks and pools and there are places to swim off the wooden jetty in the glorious sunset.
Further north is Bar Harbor, a vibrant base to explore Acadia National Park and from where you can board the 3.5-hour ferry to Nova Scotia.
Staying there
Bluebird Ocean has a relaxing end-of-the-world feel with rockers on the balcony, a seawater pool, an excellent restaurant and…
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