Up in the mountains, far from its nearest city, is one of South Korea’s greatest cultural treasures.
Haeinsa Temple is where I’ve come to see it, but it’s not the temple itself that is so special (although there’s a lot that is magnificent about it – more on that shortly).
It’s not even the old wooden buildings at the back that are the highlight, even though these structures are specifically included as one of the World Heritage Sites in South Korea.
No, it’s what these wooden buildings are holding inside it that is such a treasure, one of the most culturally significant things in the whole country.
This is the Tripitaka Koreana, and it’s the reason for my journey here into the isolated mountains.
Why is Haeinsa Temple so important?
Haeinsa Temple is one of the three main Buddhist temples in South Korea, and the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Seon Buddhism. But Haeinsa Temple is particularly significant as the location of the Buddhist scriptures known as the Tripitaka Koreana.
What is the Tripitaka Koreana?
The Tripitaka Koreana is a collection of more than 81,000 wooden blocks onto which a version of the Buddhist scripture called the Tripitaka has been carved in Korean characters. In total, there are more than 52 million characters on the blocks, which are stored in special buildings at Haeinsa Temple in South Korea.
Can you visit Haeinsa Temple?
Yes, Haeinsa Temple is open to visitors every day, who can explore the site for a small entrance fee. It’s possible to see the Tripitaka Koreana through the openings of the Janggyeong Panjeon buildings that hold it.
A journey to see the Tripitaka Koreana is spiritual for some. For all, the physical journey reflects that.
First up a long path through a forest, the rustling of leaves and the flow of the river creates a soundtrack to leave behind daily life and immerse yourself in the cleansing of nature.
Then, through the gates and into the main part of Haeinsa Temple, which rises up over several terraces.
In the courtyard of one terrace, I stop at a large pattern marked out on the ground in a square, about 20 metres on each side. It’s a maze, but with only one possible path from the entrance, you’ll turn 54 times as you follow it.
I pick up a piece of paper at the start of the maze, written on it are affirmations and lessons to consider. I read it as I walk, the idea of the maze being that you’ll master the content by the time you arrive back at the starting…
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