Swap spring cherry blossom for autumn leaves for the most Insta-worthy Japan holiday

Cherry blossoms mean big business for Japan: each year, an estimated 63 million local and international tourists travel to and across the country to witness this candy floss spectacle, spending $2.7bn in the process. But I’d argue that Japan’s natural beauty is best seen in autumn.

I’ve visited Japan on several occasions, the first two of which coincided with the peak of the country’s renowned cherry blossom season. Don’t get me wrong, the trees are incredibly beautiful – but seeing them can be hit or miss. They don’t bloom on the same dates each year, and bloom schedules differ across regions – meaning it can be tricky to know exactly when to visit. Plus, their petals only last for about a week, parks become crowded with picnickers and Instagrammers, and airlines inflate prices to capitalise on the influx of snap-happy tourists.

Having had our blossom fill, my husband suggested visiting in autumn, as he’d read that Japan’s fall foliage rivalled that of New England. I was sold – and soon discovered that the Japanese get (almost) as excited about autumnal hues as those of spring. Numerous leaf-based events are held across the country, and the Japan Meteorological Corporation releases an autumn leaves forecast. Although there is also a peak time for these, the colours start changing much earlier – meaning you have an almost two-month window in which to enjoy them.

Japan has two types of trees that turn particularly impressive shades: momiji (maple) leaves become vibrant red, while ginkgo leaves transform into a sherbert yellow. Together, they create quite the fiery spectacle.

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Our first stop was Kyoto, home to the must-see Kiyomizu-Dera – an impressive temple complex perched on the mountainside. The imposing main hall is unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere: constructed from wood beams cleverly slotted together and without the use of nails, it sits atop 139 stilts. I’d thought the view from its large verandah in spring was striking enough, but in autumn it’s elevated to another level. Before your gaze reaches the city in the distance, you’ll be hypnotised by the thousands of surrounding trees that erupt into orange and red at this time of year.

Another day took us to…