No one loves babies as much as Italians; that’s the stereotype, right? I imagine there would be a few choice words if a stranger pinched the cheeks of my one-year-old daughter on the streets of England, yet in Puglia, where enthusiastic passersby tickled her toes and ruffled her hair, it was completely charming. Kids ran up to her, smiles broke the faces of stoic waiters, each nonna waved as we strolled past their favourite bench in the evening. Wonderful.
Puglia is not on the traditional Italy family holiday map in the same way places like Sardinia or Tuscany are, but it should be. Here, the young’uns are involved in everything, from large family gatherings at the beach on Sundays to running around the piazza during a festival at 1am. I learned quickly that taxis aren’t really a thing, simply because there is always family around somewhere to give someone a lift.
And the heel of the boot has all the ingredients for a brood-happy holiday: sun, sea, sand, culture, history, food, adventure. My family and I have been spending our summers there since 2004; my brother was seven and my sister nine when we first went (I was 14). Our days were spent snorkelling in the Caribbean-warm sea, stomping around busy markets, and slurping cones piled high with Kinder Bueno gelato during our post-dinner promenade. And of course, if it’s good enough for the Beckhams…
With their warm shores, the beaches are a particular draw, and those with rocks delight older kids who can be seen jumping into the crystalline waters. Unfortunately over the years, a lot of the clubs have hiked their prices to the point many Italian tourists are heading to more affordable Albania instead. There are still a couple of good spots though – we’ve always loved Lido Verde, which has a play area and a free section if you bring your own chairs and umbrellas.
And if you don’t mind opening your wallet, head to Lido St Stefano, a calm private bay with shady picnic areas and a cafe-restaurant. Facilities can be hit and miss, but for a full day out it’s perfect for families, and roughly €80 for two people including parking, entry, an umbrella and two loungers on the sand (€10 per extra person; €5 for under nines; under-threes are free).
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