Hong Kong has two faces. The first glances westwards towards Great Britain, colonial gatekeeper for more than 150 years of this 426-square-mile territory comprising a densely populated peninsula and 236 islands.
The other face is tilted expectantly – and perhaps nervously – northwards to the People’s Republic of China, custodians of Hong Kong since July 1, 1997 under the Sino-British Joint Declaration, with an explicit understanding that the region will continue self-governance for at least 50 years.
Almost three decades into the agreement, the two faces continue to trade pleasantries during my first-time visit. Unlike mainland China, UK tourists don’t require a visa costing upwards of £130 to stay in Hong Kong, international credit cards are widely accepted and internet search engines and social media sites are accessible, but with some local restrictions.
The past few years have been challenging for the neon-lite city, due to a combination of Covid closures and political demonstrations. But the city feels calm and settled, ushering in a renewed sense of optimism for the future.
National airline carrier Cathay Pacific is increasing daily flights from the UK in 2025 (five from London Heathrow, three from Manchester) with newly retrofitted Boeing 777-300ER aircraft that deliver cosmetic and ergonomic improvements across all three cabins for a smooth landing into the island of Chek Lap Kok.
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I’m personally glad to avoid the low-altitude, 45-degree sharp turn required to approach the old Kai Tak Airport runway, flying so close to high-rise flats that passengers could see laundry drying on rooftops.
Vertiginous thrills of a different kind await on Sky Terrace 428 at Victoria Peak. The highest viewing platform in Hong Kong provides breathtaking panoramic views of the islands until 10pm each night (adults HK$75/£7.45, children HK$38/£3.80).
The 1.4km journey to the summit on one of the world’s oldest funicular railways takes under 10 minutes in handsome two-carriage trams, which serenely ascend a 25.7-degree incline on the steepest part of the route (return ticket adult HK$88-108/£8.75-£10.75, children…
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