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Greece’s tavernas forced to remove dish from menu after record sea temperatures

Simon Calder’s Travel

When Anastasios Zakalkas pulled up the ropes of his mussel farm in the Aegean Sea last month, the devastation was clear: the lines were not heaving with molluscs as they should be at harvest time but were instead filled with cracked, empty shells.

It is the second time in three years that record sea temperatures have hit the mussel harvest in northern Greece, where farmers said they saw a 90% drop in the 2024 catch. Next year will be a dud too, Zakalkas said, because all the seed for the coming season also perished.

“The destruction we suffered (for next year) was 100%,” 35-year-old Zakalkas said aboard his fishing boat on a balmy morning in late October. “We don’t know how we’ll make a living in the new year. Our main and only job is mussels,” he said. Like other Mediterranean countries, Greece is particularly susceptible to climate change, which this year led to months of above-average temperatures, punishing drought and wildfires. Crops, including chestnuts, apples and cherries have been hit. Scientists say extreme weather linked to global warming could spell bad news for its aquaculture sector too.

A series of heatwaves hit Greece in July, sending sea temperatures in the Thermaic Gulf, its main mussel producing area, above 30 degrees Celsius (86°F) for days – too hot for mussels to survive. Greece last saw mass mussel deaths in 2021 but scientists forecast that it would not be repeated for another 10 years, said Kostas Koukaras, a biologist who studies marine ecosystems.

Mussel farmer Anastasios Zakalkas, 35, reacts on a boat at his mussel farm at the Thermaic Gulf, near Thessaloniki, Greece

Mussel farmer Anastasios Zakalkas, 35, reacts on a boat at his mussel farm at the Thermaic Gulf, near Thessaloniki, Greece (REUTERS)

“This shows, even to those most sceptical, that the climate crisis is here,” he said. As world leaders prepare to meet in Azerbaijan’s capital Baku for this month’s U.N. climate summit COP29 – dubbed the “climate finance COP” – Koukaras said governments should help producers deal with climate-related costs.

“We’re very close to the collapse of mussel farming in Greece, so the state needs to support these people,” he said.

Greece‘s aquaculture production was worth over 619 million euros in 2021, the third in Europe after France and Spain, according to the Hellenic Aquaculture Producers Organization (HAPO). It is among Europe’s main producers of…

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