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The secrets of Turkey’s historic capital of cool

Shopping under cover: Izmir's Kemeralti bazaar

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(CNN) — At first glance Izmir looks very much like any other modern Turkish metropolis, densely populated with unimposing architecture.

Yet once it was Turkey’s most cosmopolitan city — and that historical cachet can still be found hidden among Izmir’s streets.

Dial the clock back more than a century and you’d find wealthy Levantine, Greek, Turkish and Armenian families promenading along Izmir’s waterfront in the latest fashions from Paris.

They drank beer imported from Munich or cocktails at elegant bars, and sent their children to church-run schools to be educated in French and Latin.

Izmirites were the epitome of sophistication and grace, but their lifestyle came to an abrupt end in 1922 when ferocious fires ripped through the streets.

Dream city

The modern day city stretches around the Gulf of Izmir but started life in old Smyrna, located in the Bayraklı neighborhood. Formerly a village, it’s now an archeological site.

According to legend, Alexander the Great was out hunting on the slopes of nearby Mount Pagos one day and stopped for a nap. Two nemeses appeared in a dream and asked him to build a city where he lay.

As was the norm, Alexander consulted with the oracle Apollo who, in full realtor mode, told him: “Smyrnians who settle in the foothills of Pagos hill near the Sacred Meles Stream will be four times happier than before.”

A new city center was established atop the mountain in the 4th century BCE as a result. Or so they say. Whatever the truth behind the story, Alexander the Great had a big impact.

The Agora of Smyrna was constructed on his orders. On completion it was four stories high, but only the basement still exists. Visitors today can see rows of elegant stone arches throwing shadows on the ground, highlighting the mechanics of a complex water system.

The foundations of the basilica, a type of public hall, contain niches decorated with graffiti, as well as engraved and painted images depicting Roman daily life. A short climb to the open ground above gives a great view across grassy fields that once bustled with activity and trade.

The Golden Age

Shopping under cover: Izmir’s Kemeralti bazaar

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Izmir was one of the stops along the Silk Road but it…

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