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Belfast city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Northern Ireland’s fun-loving capital

Belfast city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Northern Ireland’s fun-loving capital


It may not have Dublin’s imperial prestige or the pop-culture draw of Derry-Londonderry, but what Belfast does have in spades is atmosphere. At one end of town lies a stretch of lively quayside, imbued with the fizz of people and a collective fun-loving spirit. To the other, an ominous smudge of dark green mountains just visible above the rooftops. Somewhere between the two rises the Belfast of today, shaped by a notably turbulent past that now fuels its artistic, resilient soul, as well as some thought-provoking visitor experiences.

The second-largest city on the island of Ireland is stacked with history: it bore witness to the birth of the world’s most infamous cruise liner, Titanic, and emerged battleworn from decades of (hauntingly recent) conflict. From making its early fortunes in the linen trade to becoming the gateway to numerous filming locations used in the Game of Thrones franchise, Belfast has seen it all.

For today’s visitor, it’s a city of diverse and characterful neighbourhoods, where revellers emerge rosy-cheeked from vibey watering holes in the Cathedral Quarter, and culture buffs browse the many museums, galleries and gardens of the Queen’s Quarter. The Gaeltacht Quarter is where you’ll hear the Irish language spoken and traditional folk music played; while the Titanic Quarter marks the city’s maritime heritage. Whichever you explore, you’ll find this capital is a brilliant, under-sung city break right under our noses.

What to do

Take a Titanic trek

Since 2012, Belfast’s ship-building legacy has been honoured with its own designated district. Presided over by a pair of towering yellow gantry cranes (known as “Samson and Goliath”), the waterfront Titanic Quarter is the place to dive into the city’s maritime history. Begin at Titanic Belfast, a purpose-built immersive exhibition dedicated to the tragic luxury liner. Titanic was constructed on the slipways of Belfast before foundering on its maiden voyage to New York, and this museum charts its brief lifespan: from the intricacies of its design to the aftermath of its sinking. It’s incredibly moving and somewhere you cannot simply rush through. Allow a good three hours to get the full experience. Adult tickets are £21.50 and include admission to the SS Nomadic, tender to the Titanic and the last-surviving White Star Line vessel.

Afterwards, dine in “Drawing Office Two” at the nearby Titanic Hotel, which is where designers from Harland and Wolff would dream up the…

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