Once upon a time—local lore states that it was actually around the 12th century—there was a small village in Northern Italy called Ivrea where a tyrannical ruler thought that he could mistreat women as he pleased. When the tyrannical ruler decided to have his way with the miller’s daughter Violetta, she fought back valiantly and severed the tyrant’s head. Violetta triumphantly displayed her gory trophy from a balcony to a cheering group of villagers.
In honor of Violetta’s unforgettable stand against tyranny, the townspeople of Ivrea pay tribute to her memory every year during the Carnival of Ivrea. Many countries around the world observe carnival season—which starts with the celebration of Epiphany on January 6th and concludes with a day of solemn prayer on Lent.
In lieu of pelting sticks and stones, the residents of Ivrea wear colorful costumes and divide into royal and peasant teams and throw oranges at each other to pay homage to the town’s historical turmoil in a playful manner. The aranceri—as the common people are known—lob oranges at nobles on floats. The Battle of the Oranges generally lasts three days and concludes on the final day of carnival which is known as Fat Tuesday.
Visitors can participate in the Battle of the Oranges by registering to join either the common people or the nobles. If you want to observe the festivities from a safe distance, you can purchase a red cap—which signals that you support the aranceri. You can also watch the oranges fly from behind a wire net.
The Carnival of Ivrea features a spirited procession, drum music, and plenty of delicious treats, such as fagioli grassi—a rich bean and pork rind soup that is traditionally served during carnival season. Don’t be surprised if you see brave Violetta perched atop a float. If the chill of winter is still in the air, locally produced mulled wine or a toasty cup of schnapps tea is the ideal way to warm up. The Carnival of Ivrea even hosts a fireworks display.
If you take off your red cap and venture out…
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