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Should you visit Goa or Kerala?

Several shoppers look at the clothes, shoes and textiles on display in the stalls at Goa Night Market, Goa, India

Planning a tropical winter holiday? Read on as two writers make the case for their preferred southern Indian state.

As you head toward India’s southern tip, temperatures rise, beaches unfold, food gets ever spicier – and a decision about just where you should settle in and slow down beckons.

You could do worse than an extended spell in two of southern India’s most beguiling states, Goa and Kerala. But what if you had to pick one over the other? Since we couldn’t possibly decide, we asked two writers to make the case for their preferred destination. A subcontinental winter getaway awaits.

Goa’s markets, friendly residents and fiery food draw visitors from all over the world. Shutterstock

Go to Goa

A proud Goenkar (Goan) who has spent most of her life in the state, Joanna Lobo is on a mission to spread the good word about her home, and showcase its beauty beyond the Instagram Reels and stereotypes.

The year was 2020. Indians, besieged by the rampaging coronavirus and stuck at home, sought an escape – a better life – in a place that was beautiful, quiet, affordable and convenient. Where did they choose to go? Goa, of course. Welcome to India’s favorite post-pandemic destination.

People go to Kerala on vacation. They come to Goa to find a home.

This tiny state is a one-stop destination with everything to offer – which made it a popular spot for visitors well before the pandemic. Couples would flock here for honeymoons; families for quality time; youngsters for a quick holiday away from the prying eyes of adults; unmarried folk for bachelor and bachelorette parties. All over India, “Goa chalte hain” (“Let’s go to Goa”) is a commonly repeated phrase for anyone planning a getaway.

Shree Shantadurga Temple in Goa, India, painted in vibrant yellow-orange against a clear blue sky.
Goa’s temples, including Shree Shantadurga, are architecturally stunning. Alex Erofeenkov/Shutterstock

Good things always come in small packages. So despite being a fraction of the size of Kerala, Goa offers so much more. It is a place that embraces tradition and yet keeps space for modernity. The colonial presence of the Portuguese, for 451 years, has given it a distinctly European feel in terms of food, architecture, clothing and music.

Goa’s highlight reel is so long, it could be a movie. (Consider this the trailer.) There’s history, architecture and maybe even a miracle to be found at the heritage site of Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, which hosts the remains of St Francis Xavier.

Goa’s temples are architecturally stunning, as are its forts, including

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