Durham is far more than just its city – historic, mighty and photogenic though that is. The county, though small, has a bracing coastline plus a hinterland of soft green dales and heather moorland. Nowhere is very far from anywhere else, so you can take your pick from a mix of city and country pads. While the city, not surprisingly, has the buzzier places, first-timers might be surprised by the clutch of swanky country-house hotels – often bubbling with spas – dotted around. Plus there are smartened-up inns that nicely balance a traditional locals’ bar with cosseting bedrooms.
The best hotels in County Durham are:
This magnificent hotel will fulfill your Victorian dreams
(Hotel Indigo)
Neighbourhood: Durham city
In the city’s former County Council offices, this is a clever repurposing of an iconic Victorian red-brick and stone building that bursts with civic pride, from its marbled staircase to its domed tower. Although part of a chain, Hotel Indigo aims to give each hotel a ‘neighbourhood feel’, hence you’ll find lots of nods to academia (Durham is one of England’s oldest universities) and the city’s cathedral. The 83 rather masculine bedrooms – spread across a warren of floors and corridors – are lightly themed, perhaps featuring a tie-striped rug or ecclesiastical-style chair. The restaurant, in the striking, circular, oak-panelled former council chamber, is a Marco Pierre White steakhouse; so quite meaty. It’s an easy stroll to the river or 10 minutes to the castle and cathedral.
Price: Doubles from £94, room only
The Kingslodge retains a country pub feel
(Kingslodge Inn)
Neighbourhood: Flass Vale, Durham city
In a tricky-to-find but surprisingly quiet and handy location – 10 minutes from both the station and the market place – this former coaching inn has been jollied up into a bright and cheery, welcome-to-allcomers sort of place. The open-plan bar-restaurant has a folksy, rustic style with tartan carpets, panelling and brickwork, mis-matched chairs, and collections of paraphernalia. Food is cheerful, crowd-pleasing stuff – pizzas, steaks, fish and chips – with equally upbeat staff. Bedrooms are modest affairs with plaid carpets and frills-free furnishings, but tick the box for somewhere well-priced to rest and recover before another day’s sight-seeing.
Price: Doubles from £109
Fancy a trip to Durham prison?
(Victoria Inn)
Neighbourhood: Durham city
Close to Durham prison (handy if you’re visiting)…
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