Thessaloniki city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in this buzzy Greek coastal hotspot

As far as cities on the water go, Thessaloniki is not quaint. Instead, tucked in its own turquoise gulf of the North Aegean sea, this is a hardy patchwork of a port city, filled to the brim with assorted 20th-century and Byzantine architecture (and a little of everything in between). Rather than postcard-perfection, it positively oozes character ‒ complete with graffiti, traditional bouzouki music and a thriving art scene.

An edgy enclave of Northern Greek culture, the city is poles apart from the whitewashed island towns we conjure up when we picture travel-brochure Greece; instead, it carries its spirit through galleries and wine bars, mixed Orthodox, Ottoman, Sephardic Jewish and Balkan heritage, and entirely holds its own as Athens’ quirky little sibling.

Thessaloniki has all the chill factor of a sunkissed city by the sea – including a three-mile waterside path to cycle, scoot or slow stroll with ice-cream to your heart’s content, and a navigable, grid-like system of streets. Stroll it to spy colourful awnings, sleek hotels and fashionable, enterprising locals ‒ iced cappuccino in hand, always.

What to do

Soak up the culture

For art lovers and the history-curious, an all-day gallery crawl is definitely on the cards. Modern, ancient or a bit of both, you can work your way around MOMus ‒ the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Byzantine Culture or the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki for a look at the city through the ages. You might even stop by the Selfie Museum, if perching on a platform against a sparkly backdrop of emojis is your thing. Delightfully, most temporary and outdoor exhibitions throughout the city centre are free to visitors, with a ticket required for permanent collections only. Prices range from approximately €4-€15, subject to exhibit.

See the city from the water

A waterfront lunch or brunch stop is also a must here; but if you’re feeling adventurous, turn those casual meal reservations into a mini cruise into the Thermaikos Gulf ‒ boats go hourly from the city’s White Tower. From hour-long trips to a half or full day, exploring the waters here by boat gives a sprinkling of Southern-Med vibes, and given the variety of boats, the experience can be as kitsch or as swanky as you want. You could explore the Thermaic Gulf on a six-hour round…